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Anyone can talk about the quality, but in fact things are not all that simple. Although the bleedkit looks really easy to manufacture, but there are some tricky details. Let's see how we did better than the market leader.




Our bleedkit is basically an assembly of 6 parts (plus the bleed block, but that comes at the end)

That's it. Just six parts. Simple, isn't it. Not quite. 


1. Syringe

We tested 7 different brands of syringes. The main focus point was the quality of the plunger seal (yes the black rubbery part inside) if the syringe was left uncleansed for days or weeks with DOT brake fluid inside. So we left the brake fluid in the syringe and then we tested with the clamp closed how hard we could we pull before the air was able to pass the seal. The clear winner was the BD Plastipak syringe made my Becton Dickinson. But it has major downside. We were unable to get custom printing like BLEEDKIT.COM on the syringe. The minimum order for custom printing was 1.000.000 pcs. So, we had to make a Bleedkit.com sticker to cover the BD Plastipak logo :)

We work closely with the two best local bike shops. Busy bike shops don't clean their bleedkits on a daily basis, so they are just right for no-mercy testing. Each of the bike mechanics said, independently:" Your syringe is better than Avid's!" That was certainly the deciding factor. 


2. Tube

The tube was Big problem. We tested many samples from 4 tube producers (over 35 different types and sizes), but none of them felt just right. It has to be soft enough to be 100% clamped and at the same time hard enough not to kink. Its inner diameter must be just the right fit for the size of the nylon fitting. We knew from the start that we don't want the tube to be as firm as Avid's. 

Most appropriate tubes (the ones that can be clamped 100% without getting damaged) soften a little when filled with DOT fluid. This can result in air leakage at the end of the tube on either side. I received two reports of an Avid’s bleedkit leaking, one at the point of the brass fitting and tube and one at the luer lock fitting. So we really focused on this issue. We tested many different solutions (see photo below of our "testing lab") for preventing air leakage. After some time, we decided on the somewhat time-consuming process of gluing both tricky parts, but long-term testing has shown that this is the right way. We worked closely with Loctite technical support. Thank you on that one!

Back to the tube. After this much testing we realized we needed a custom drawn tube. We opted for a large tube manufacturer that uses BASF Elastollan raw material. It was a good decision.



3. Clamp


There are many clamps on the market. The testing time was short in this case. We really liked the anatomic shape and width of the blue Bartec clamp. Bartec clamps have been on the market for decades. That's it.

Check out the two photos below to see what it looks like compared to Avid's clamp (the red one).


4. M5 fitting

For our brass bit we chose the finest CNC manufacturer around. The tight tolerances are remarkable thanks to the precise Citizen Swiss Lathe CNC cutting tool.


5. O-ring

We noticed that Avid's O-ring gets "stretched" after some time if left unwashed. That's why we chose German made o-rings that fit really tight. Furthermore we included spare O-rings, just for peace of mind. It is always good to have 'em although you will probably never really need them.


6. Nylon luerlock fitting

Injectech USA is the producer we work with. There are others, but the Injectech’s precision is worth extra money.




It looks kinda silly, but all the long-term problems (if any) will show up.



One of the many tube samples we tested before deciding on custom drawn tube.


This is our universal bleed block

It fits all brakes. It can be quite easily cut to size, but so far we haven’t come across any brakes it wouldn't fit. It is a little bit softer than a regular plastic moulded bleed block. A very neat solution that helps you avoid any damage to your brake pistons if they get stuck and you have to push the bleed block into the caliper by force.